We've seen London, we've seen France - and we have no more clean underpants.
Just kidding...mostly.
« July 2009 | Main | September 2009 »
We've seen London, we've seen France - and we have no more clean underpants.
Just kidding...mostly.
Posted at 11:43 AM in Europe | Permalink | Comments (1) | TrackBack (0)
Today's wine rant features the well-known wines of the Southern Cote du Rhone region. There are entire encyclopedias written on wines from the various subregions within the Southern Cote du Rhone. I will only be focusing on my three favorite (and the most well known): Chatueauneuf du Pape (referred to as CdP by ballers), Gigondas and Vacqueyras (listed in decreasing order for price and prestige).
Posted at 02:11 PM in Reality Crush | Permalink | Comments (0) | TrackBack (0)
Posted at 01:29 PM in Food and Drink | Permalink | Comments (1) | TrackBack (0)
Hello,
Well, we finally made our pilgrimage to the holy land of Syrah, a delightful red grape which flourishes on the steep south-facing slopes west of the Rhone River:
If you are even a casual fan of Syrah based wines you must include the dark and aromatic reds of the Northern Rhone in your repertoire. Supposedly the Romans introduced the Syrah grape to this region many moons ago and it has happily stayed here ever since.
Syrah is the only red grape permitted in the prestigious appellations of the Northern Rhone (some permit small amounts of the white Viognier or Marsanne/Rousanne grape during fermentation to add perfume to the red wines). The Syrahs of Hermitage, Cote Rotie and Cornas are considered by most wine geeks to be the world's finest example of Syrah. If you would like to purchase one of these wines back home you should probably talk to your banker about a home equity line of credit. Hopefully these entry level Cote-Rotie and Cornas wines we tasted will make it back in our checked luggage. If nothing else, they will shatter at 30,000 feet all over my polo shirts and provide me with a nice story-in-the-stain to tell.
In case you want to get in on the tasty Northern Rhone finesse without going bankrupt you should seek out red wines from the Crozes-Hermitage or Saint-Joseph appellations. I've had more luck with the former although Saint-Joseph has really come through as well. If you have grown weary of paying too much for oaky cabernets from California or skittles-flavored Shiraz in a kangaroo pouch then you need to pick some Crozes on your next trip to the wine shop. Goes very well with anything lamb or duck.
Take a look at these vines above. They are planted on extremely well-drained granite soils which can include decomposed chalk and mica. No tractors or machinery used in the harvest. You have to pick these babies by hand.
The Northern Rhone is also home to the world's best Viongnier, an elegant and complex white wine which is notorisouly difficult to grow back home. For my palate, these wines provide endless peach skin flavors with a touch of smoke and honey. The fruit really shines through without being overly sweet. Wines from the Condrieu appellation are made with 100% Viognier which grows on steep granite slopes. Again, Condrieu is outrageously expensive back home but well worth the purchase as a special occasion wine. It's one of the few white wines which can pair well with red meats and beef dishes as well as anything that once flew.
I hope I've convinced you to try a Syrah or Viognier form the Northern Rhone Valley of France. They are truly unique wines which are hard to replicate elsewhere in the world due to the unique geology, climate and hand-picking care characteristic of the area.
The chapel or hermitage above that sits high on the sloped vineyards above the Northern Rhone is the namesake of the village of Tain l'Hermitage and world famous Hermitage wines (a favorite of Kings Louis XIII and XIV). The chapel was built in honor of my ancestor, St. Christopher, the fearless red-headed warrior who shepherded the baby Jesus across troubled waters.
I should become a history teacher.
Cheers,
Red
Posted at 12:40 AM in Reality Crush | Permalink | Comments (0) | TrackBack (0)
So timing is of the essence when eating lunch in France. The observance of the "siesta" is strictly enforced making it difficult for weary road trippers to grab a lunch on the go. As a result yours truly have had to grab meals at McDonalds on a few occasion because this is the ONLY PLACE to find any sort of food between 2-6pm. How does this relate? When we rolled up to our french cooking class a collection of McDonalds wrappers and happy meal toys spilled out of the car soiling the pristine grounds of the Cook In France facility. A great first impression from the future restauranteurs.
The French cooking class started with Jim, our chef, making us a dinner of cold tomato soup, leg of lamb (poached in the cool sous vide machine) and panna cotta with berries. The sauce on the lamb was so good I wanted to drink it, so we knew good things were coming. He also served this garlic butter popcorn as a snack with pre-dinner drinks...um yeah, I hounded him for that recipe (which turned out to be a simple trick - butter infused with garlic and drizzled on after popping the corn!).
Posted at 09:11 AM in Food and Drink | Permalink | Comments (0) | TrackBack (0)
Posted at 02:59 PM in Europe | Permalink | Comments (4) | TrackBack (0)
Aloha,
When most people think of wines from France, Bordeaux and Burgundy and perhaps even Cote du Rhone come to mind. Sadly, most wine from the South of France is respected about as much as Rodney Dangerfield. Located in Provence near the Mediterranean port of Marseilles, Bandol is a tight little wine producing region that pleasantly exceeds its reputation for making nothing but easy drinking Rose. The Bandol AOC is in fact capable of producing stellar white, red and yes of course, the world’s most famous (and expensive) Rose wines. A typical scene in Bandol:
Our favorite winery stop in Bandol was Domaine Tempier, a small winery made famous in the U.S. by the Berkeley wine importer, Kermit Lynch. An aside: when purchasing French wine look at who the importer is on the back label. You can hardly go wrong with a Kermit Lynch import. I also like North Berkeley.
The majority of Tempier (and Bandol red and rose wines) are made from the Mouvedre grape. Mourvedre is a fascinating and super tannic grape which is capable of aging for 10-15 years. This sturdy grape does well in the in the hot and dry summers typical of the area. Bandol winemakers are not allowed to irrigate whatsoever. The theory is that this lack of easy water in the hot summer pulls extra concentration and flavor out of the grape. I happen to think Tempier’s red Mourvedre based wines would be the ideal companion to a hearty beef stew and a fireplace after a long day of skiing.
In case you don’t want to wait 6 months for a glass of wine you can always drink the pink. Rose is the best wine choice in the summer and no one does it better than Bandol. Roses are very flexible food wines which go nicely with lighter dishes, salads, seafood and almost any cheese. Contrary to popular belief Rose is not just red and wine mixed together in equal proportions by some smelly scheming Frenchman. Knowledge of this practice, which is strictly prohibited in France, contributes the negative perception of Rose in the U.S. That and I think most American men wouldn’t be caught dead with a glass of the pink stuff in their hands. I must admit, after a couple glasses I got the feeling that I might start floating around the beach in a ballerina costume. But it’s a whole lot better than Bud Light and women love it. So guys, don't be afraid to look semi-gay on Labor Day. Give the pink stuff a chance.
Bandol also produces some great white wines that are light and dry in character and versatile for food pairing. Most of the whites are made from the Ugni Blanc and Clairette grapes which are sneered at elsewhere in France and unknown in the U.S. This little guy was the perfect match for a summer salad with shrimp and goat cheese. And look at these silly little traditional Provincial figurines in the background. Can you hear them frolicking? Hee hee hee.
To recap:
-Think Bandol before any place in the world if you are passionate about Rose.
-Serve Rose for Labor Day parties and impress women of all walks.
-If you want more hair on your chest as the weather turns cold make sure to check out the Mourvedre based red wines of Bandol.
Cheers,
Red
Posted at 09:33 AM in Reality Crush | Permalink | Comments (1) | TrackBack (0)
After a few lovely days with my mom, we began to plan the next phase of our travels. We had such good experiences renting apartments before so we decided to continue in that vein and find a place that we could continue practicing our cooking and that would be centrally located to explore the Rhone Valley (and wines). We looked online for a bit and saw a surprising place - a goat farm that had an apartment for rent! We laughed our heads off and said, “God, we aren’t THAT desperate”. So we found several good places throughout Southern Rhone and sent out 5 emails. All came back negative - already full (did we mention that all of France goes on “holiday” for the month of August?). So we sent out 5 more emails. Then 15 after that. In total, Red probably sent out 25 emails and two came back positive. Guess where we are?
The Goat Farm in the mountains of Luberon!
When we arrived we were greeted by three excited dogs and two friendly older women. They showed us the apartment:
You walk in and it looks like a normal ranch-style studio: the kitchen is very nice (first gas stove we’ve seen in Europe), functional bathroom/bedroom area, cosy interior, etc...then you open the back door and there are the goats, having dinner. No matter - we were there to stay and quite frankly the country scenery and warm welcome were exactly what we wanted (this pic was on our first night):
After settling in our hostesses told us that the next morning we could help with the milking if we wanted to, so we got up early and went to see our new neighbors.
They use a milking machine and they distract the goats with grain - otherwise they seem to stamp around and get restless.
We got over our shyness quickly:
The next post will be about making goat cheese - really fun and tasty.
But before we sign off, the one tiny thing that we have had to adjust to: the apartment can kind of start to smell “goaty” if left closed up too long. It used to be an old barn, so while charming, the walls seem to be steeped in goat (poop) scent. We are constantly deciding which to prioritize - the goaty smell or opening the doors which airs it out but also lets in flies (and not just one or two - hundreds). Such a dilemma.
But this place is awesome and we love it - another random bit of luck on our trip.
Posted at 03:00 AM in Europe | Permalink | Comments (1) | TrackBack (0)
We are in France (and have been for a while - oops)! After several train rides and picking up our new rental car (a cool little ride - BMW!), we are on our way. We stayed one night in Nice and practically spent the whole time at the beach. The water was refreshing and the people we met were friendly. Here is Red in the ocean:
From there we went to Le Cadiure d’Azur, a small village with a renowned restaurant. It was absolutely delicious and chic (we had the most interesting cheese course that the entire table sampled - some against their will!), although we have to admit that everything we have eaten in France has been good. But the main reason we went to Le Cadiure d’Azur was my mom - we all met up and had a blast. She even wine tasted with us (reds and whites - very adventurous mom!)!
While we were all together we went to Cassis, a beautiful coastal town. We watched people jump off the cliffs and tan on the rocks - the water is a breath-taking color. Some of the group even went swimming.
After that we went to Aix en Provence, a busy college town famous for its Roman fountains. We walked around, shopped and soaked up time with our out-of-town visitors - it is great to see people we know from home in a foreign country!
Next up: Red is posting about the regional wine and then we will show you a UNIQUE place to stay. Check back!
Posted at 08:18 AM in Europe | Permalink | Comments (1) | TrackBack (0)
Greetings,
There is so much wine in Tuscany I don’t know where to begin. Most towns have at least 3 wine shops on each street and every store that sells any kind of food in Tuscany inevitably has bottles for sale on display. Tuscans literally have red wine coursing through their veins. Unfortunately, the quality of these wines varies tremendously with the majority being nothing to write home about. In any case, the vineyards sure are a nice sight.
First a bit about the geography and land. Tuscany has a mediterrannean climate with dry hot summers and cool wet winters. As we move further form the Mediterranean coast and closer to the Appenine Alps the influence of the ocean diminishes quickly leaving most of the region exposed to sweltering 90 degree and even 100 + degree days in the middle of summer. Soils in this region aren't suitable for most crops (see below) but the native Sangiovese grape thrives in these conditions.
We visited an interesting winery just outside of Lucca which makes a very decent Tuscan wine. In order to add concentration to the wine the vintner adds a must to the first fermentation of the wine called Governo Toscano. This must is made from a second fermentation of grapes that have remained on the vine until shriveled into sugar saturated raisins. The resulting wine is so black and viscous that it makes your mouth look like you’ve been eating smurfs. Below is a picture of the creator of the this Tuscan Teeth Stainer boxing up some wine to send out (probably by donkey or vespa).
Tuscany is most famous for its red Chianti Classico wine. Chianti and Chianti Classico have such a mixed reputation in the U.S. that it’s difficult and controversial to make any generalizations. In my opinon, Chiantis are a soft and supple fruity wine offering medium structure at best. They can be very enjoyable with a wide variety of foods but the don't offer much in terms of complexity and structure. We visited a beautiful Castle in Chianti whch produces wines of high pedigree. We sampled the wines pictured below and brought a few home to accompany pasta dishes.
I was delightfully surprised by Morellino di Scansano, a wine from the Southern Tuscany region. This is still primarily Sangiovese with generally about 10% Cabernet Sauvingon. 2007 vintages of this wine is very rich considering the minimal time spent in oak.
Currently, all the rave in the world of Italian Red Wines is the Brunello di Montalcino DOCG. We tried a couple of these and I was disappointed. They were tasty wines but they do not in my opinion compare to a Cabernet from Napa or Bordeaux as many critics claim. Who knows, maybe we didn’t have the really great Brunellos but my advice is to focus on Northern Italy for high quality wines and keep Chianti where it belongs at the lunch table next to cheap pastas.
Unfortunately I didn't to try any of the much-hyped "Super Tuscan" red wines of the region. For those of you who don't care much about wine just think Super Expensive when you hear Super Tuscan. These are wines aren't made from the traditional and government controlled Sangiovese dominated formula. Instead, they make use of Cabernet, Merlot and other non-native grapes to make concentrated wines which are still too expensive for me to casually sample.
That's all for Italy. Much more content for the wines of France.
Cheers,
Red
Posted at 01:00 PM | Permalink | Comments (1) | TrackBack (0)