Reinventing Reality

Wines of the Southern Rhone

Today's wine rant features the well-known wines of the Southern Cote du Rhone region. There are entire encyclopedias written on wines from the various subregions within the Southern Cote du Rhone. I will only be focusing on my three favorite (and the most well known): Chatueauneuf du Pape (referred to as CdP by ballers), Gigondas and Vacqueyras (listed in decreasing order for price and prestige). 

These three red wines from the Southern Rhone are known for their warm and spicy character with loads of black and red fruit and a tad bit of "poopy barnyard" old world funk. Don't let this turn you off. These grenache and syrah based wines are a great alternative to your everyday cabernet and tend to do well with gamey dishes, meats of all kinds, bbq, and heavy sauces. 

Wine tasting CdP-style:

Chateauneuf du Pape is a special wine region for me. Perhaps my favorite or second favorite in France. I believe these wines (red) are very consistent in terms of their quality and delivery. The vineyards are characterized by scraggily old grenache vines which sit low to the ground and "puddingstones" or large rocks which help retain heat in the winter. 

Here's a shot of the vineyards of Clos du Caillou (one of my favorites) with a view of Mt. Ventoux, the iconic symbol of Northern Provence in the background.

Most CdPs I've tasted  have an outrageous silky mouthfeel. At best you can taste these wines in your mouth for up to one minute after taking a sip. This is a good thing when real fruit and other "interesting" barnyard flavors are present. Again, most of these wines are dominated by the Grenache grape (usually about 80%) followed by Syrah, Mouvedre, Cinsault and up to 9 other select grapes which are relatively obscure outside of Provence. An added bonus of the CdP: these wines can age for 10 years just as well as they can be popped and poured tomorrow. You don't find this often with Bordeaux reds. 

CdP is starting to make a name for its white wines as well. Made mostly from grapes that aren't well known outside the region, these dry and crisp whites are an interesting alternative to the boring Chardonnay and Sauvingon Blanc routine. However, Rose and I discovered there is a dramatic difference between the younger unoaked and more fruit driven CdPs versus the older substantially oaked CdPs. We definitely prefer the former although people who like those butterbutt Chards from California would appreciate all that extra wood flavor in the oaked CdPs. Sadly, all the wines of the CdP are getting a bit too pricey for casual purposes. 

The same thing is happening to the wines of Gigondas, just 20 minutes down the road form CdP. The Gigondas wine appellation is strictly reds and again, mostly grenache followed by syrah and mouvedre. I'm still not the greatest at telling these apart from CdP and really nice generic Cote du Rhone Village wines but I think they are slightly harsher and heavier with a little bit less finesse. The wines of Vacqueyras are very reasonably priced and, in my opinion, deliver the most bang for the buck in the Southern Rhone. Look at that badass etching on the bottle. Why can't Napa or Sonoma try this?

These wines (red) can be even spicier than CdP so if this is not your forte run back to an oaky cabernet. Vacqueyras is the next big thing in the Southern Rhone and I think these wines will suffer the same fate as CdP and Gigondas in terms of price but until then please go grab one of these guys and roast up some lamb lollipops. If you still cringe at the price then go for a nice Cote du Rhone Villages wine. Yes there really is a difference between regular Cote du Rhone and Cote du Rhone Villages with the latter usually being more interesting and concentrated for just a few dollars more. 

I could go on and on about wine from Cote du Rhone here but I'm much better in person. Hope to see you all sometime soon.

Cheers, 

Red

 

Wines of the Northern Rhone

Hello,

Well, we finally made our pilgrimage to the holy land of Syrah, a delightful red grape which flourishes on the steep south-facing slopes west of the Rhone River: 

If you are even a casual fan of Syrah based wines you must include the dark and aromatic reds of the Northern Rhone in your repertoire. Supposedly the Romans introduced the Syrah grape to this region many moons ago and it has happily stayed here ever since. 

Syrah is the only red grape permitted in the prestigious appellations of the Northern Rhone (some permit small amounts of the white Viognier or Marsanne/Rousanne grape during fermentation to add perfume to the red wines). The Syrahs of Hermitage, Cote Rotie and Cornas are considered by most wine geeks to be the world's finest example of Syrah. If you would like to purchase one of these wines back home you should probably talk to your banker about a home equity line of credit. Hopefully these entry level Cote-Rotie and Cornas wines we tasted will make it back in our checked luggage. If nothing else, they will shatter at 30,000 feet all over my polo shirts and provide me with a nice story-in-the-stain to tell. 

In case you want to get in on the tasty Northern Rhone finesse without going bankrupt you should seek out red wines from the Crozes-Hermitage or Saint-Joseph appellations. I've had more luck with the former although Saint-Joseph has really come through as well. If you have grown weary of paying too much for oaky cabernets from California or skittles-flavored Shiraz in a kangaroo pouch then you need to pick some Crozes on your next trip to the wine shop. Goes very well with anything lamb or duck.

Take a look at these vines above. They are planted on extremely well-drained granite soils which can include decomposed chalk and mica. No tractors or machinery used in the harvest. You have to pick these babies by hand. 

The Northern Rhone is also home to the world's best Viongnier, an elegant and complex white wine which is notorisouly difficult to grow back home. For my palate, these wines provide endless peach skin flavors with a touch of smoke and honey. The fruit really shines through without being overly sweet. Wines from the Condrieu appellation are made with 100% Viognier which grows on steep granite slopes. Again, Condrieu is outrageously expensive back home but well worth the purchase as a special occasion wine. It's one of the few white wines which can pair well with red meats and beef dishes as well as anything that once flew. 

 

I hope I've convinced you to try a Syrah or Viognier form the Northern Rhone Valley of France. They are truly unique wines which are hard to replicate elsewhere in the world due to the unique geology, climate and hand-picking care characteristic of the area. 

The chapel or hermitage above that sits high on the sloped vineyards above the Northern Rhone is the namesake of the village of Tain l'Hermitage and world famous Hermitage wines (a favorite of Kings Louis XIII and XIV). The chapel was built in honor of my ancestor, St. Christopher, the fearless red-headed warrior who shepherded the baby Jesus across troubled waters.

I should become a history teacher.

Cheers, 

Red

The Wines of Bandol

Aloha,  

When most people think of wines from France, Bordeaux and Burgundy and perhaps even Cote du Rhone come to mind. Sadly, most wine from the South of France is respected about as much as Rodney Dangerfield. Located in Provence near the Mediterranean port of Marseilles, Bandol is a tight little wine producing region that pleasantly exceeds its reputation for making nothing but easy drinking Rose. The Bandol AOC is in fact capable of producing stellar white, red and yes of course, the world’s most famous (and expensive) Rose wines. A typical scene in Bandol:

Our favorite winery stop in Bandol was Domaine Tempier, a small winery made famous in the U.S. by the Berkeley wine importer, Kermit Lynch. An aside: when purchasing French wine look at who the importer is on the back label. You can hardly go wrong with a Kermit Lynch import. I also like North Berkeley. 

The majority of Tempier (and Bandol red and rose wines) are made from the Mouvedre grape. Mourvedre is a fascinating and super tannic grape which is capable of aging for 10-15 years. This sturdy grape does well in the in the hot and dry summers typical of the area. Bandol winemakers are not allowed to irrigate whatsoever. The theory is that this lack of easy water in the hot summer pulls extra concentration and flavor out of the grape. I happen to think Tempier’s red Mourvedre based wines would be the ideal companion to a hearty beef stew and a fireplace after a long day of skiing. 

In case you don’t want to wait 6 months for a glass of wine you can always drink the pink. Rose is the best wine choice in the summer and no one does it better than Bandol. Roses are very flexible food wines which go nicely with lighter dishes, salads, seafood and almost any cheese. Contrary to popular belief Rose is not just red and wine mixed together in equal proportions by some smelly scheming Frenchman. Knowledge of this practice, which is strictly prohibited in France, contributes the negative perception of Rose in the U.S. That and I think most American men wouldn’t be caught dead with a glass of the pink stuff in their hands. I must admit, after a couple glasses I got the feeling that I might start floating around the beach in a ballerina costume. But it’s a whole lot better than Bud Light and women love it. So guys, don't be afraid to look semi-gay on Labor Day. Give the pink stuff a chance.

Bandol also produces some great white wines that are light and dry in character and versatile for food pairing. Most of the whites are made from the Ugni Blanc and Clairette grapes which are sneered at elsewhere in France and unknown in the U.S. This little guy was the perfect match for a summer salad with shrimp and goat cheese. And look at these silly little traditional Provincial figurines in the background. Can you hear them frolicking? Hee hee hee.

To recap: 

-Think Bandol before any place in the world if you are passionate about Rose. 

-Serve Rose for Labor Day parties and impress women of all walks. 

-If you want more hair on your chest as the weather turns cold make sure to check out the Mourvedre based red wines of Bandol.  

Cheers, 

Red

The Wines of Piemonte

Buongiorno!

This is Red here and I'm finally getting around to posting about all things wine. My goal is to post about the unique wines from each region we visit in Europe.

We recently finished our tour of the Piedmont region, home to some of Italy's most prestigious wines. Looking at a map this region is somewhere between Turin and the Mediterranean Sea in Northwestern italy. The towns of Alba and Asti nestled in the Langhe Hills form the heart of the Piedmont wine region. Vines absolutely dominate the landscape here. There is no comparison in the U.S. -- all the hillsides around Alba, Asti, Barbaresco, and Barolo are covered by vines. The vines are neatly tended creating a manicured and dramatically beautiful landscape. On clear days you can see the Alps looming over the vineyards of Piedmont. 

The cream of the Italian red wine crop includes two distinct appellations right outside of Alba: Barolo and Barbaresco. Nowhere else in the world does the finicky and difficult Nebbiolo grape achieve the greatness it does in these two small areas. Barolo and Barbersco wines are each made from 100% Nebbiolo and are subject to strict quality controls making them a luxury item compared with the other red wines of the region, Barbera and Dolcetto. Some have described a good Barolo as “tar and roses” due it’s delicate floral smell with hints of tobacco and leather. These wines have great aging potential due to their high tannins (dry mouth feel). They tend to go well with hearty beef dishes (or the local veal carpaccio) much like a good Napa Cab or Bordeaux, however the color is much lighter than cabernet. Think Pinot Noir with and old school Italian gangster crustiness that pairs well with dried meats.

At their best, Barbera and Dolcetto are both fruity but inky dark wines which are seriously underrated in the U.S. They go well with almost any pizza, pasta or Italian dish and are a stable dinner companion for locals around Alba. Barbera has the same acidity as a tomato making it a natural choice for Italian cooking. The grape is supposedly similar to the Mourvedre/Mataro grape used widely in Southern France and Spain, which helps explain why we are so found of it. 

Becuase Nebbiolo grapes fetch the highest price, especially in the cases of Barolo and Barberseco, the best land around Alba is allocated to Nebbiolo. Most locals don’t drink Barolo and Barbersco beucase they are too pricey. Instead you tend to see Italians drinking generic Nebbiolo D’Alba or Dolcetto which has spent little to no time in “barriques” or oak barrels. You can purchase a delicious and fruity Dolcetto or Nebbiolo for about 5 Euro at a restaurant or 2.50 Euro at a grocery store while low end Barolo and Barbersco fetch about 16 and 12 Euro, respectively.

The name Dolcetto means “little sweet one” in Italian which is an unfortunate misnomer for this fruity but undeniably dry red wine.  Dolcetto seems to be the go-to grape for fast turn around table wine in this region. I’ve seen a lot of 2008 Dolcetto in the grocery stores and we did try one at a pizzeria and were very satisfied. Kind of a shame though. I think Dolcetto deserves at least a little time in oak to mature it’s earthy mushroom and dark fruit flavors before it hits the public. 

We were told by our Innkeeper to avoid Barolo becuase the people there don't like the recent influx of wine tourism and that they were a “frustrated town.” He advised us instead to focus on tasting in Barberseco where people where more friendly. We in fact found the exact opposite to be true. Warm reception at vineyards in Barolo and no reception/no service at the producers guild in Barberesco. Plus, the hillsides of Barolo are steeper and more picturesque.

We enjoyed almost all the wines we tried in Piedmont. We want to advocate Nebbiolo back in the states beucase we are convinced it deserves a seat at the table with the other "noble" red grapes like Cabernet Sauvignon and Pinot Noir. Interestingly the best wine we had here and still the best I’ve tasted in Italy so far (we are now in the Chianti area) was this Barbera d’Asti from Ca' Di Pian. 

Pencil shavings, prune juice, black cherry and velvety mouthfeel...perfect companion to Gnocchi and White Truffle Sauce.  Asti has long been known for it's white sparkling wine, Asti Spumante, but the Barberas we tasted from Asti were truly top notch and better than those from Alba. Could this have something to do with the fact that the best land in Alba is all planted with Nebbiolo grapes?

Cheers, 

Red